{"id":266,"date":"2018-02-13T23:45:18","date_gmt":"2018-02-13T20:45:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/?p=266"},"modified":"2018-02-14T22:36:31","modified_gmt":"2018-02-14T19:36:31","slug":"beyaz-karlar-ulkesi-sedir-diyari-lubnan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/beyaz-karlar-ulkesi-sedir-diyari-lubnan\/266","title":{"rendered":"Beyaz Karlar \u00dclkesi, sedir diyar\u0131: L\u00fcbnan"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Kah bir \u00e7\u00f6l r\u00fczgar\u0131, kah Akdeniz havas\u0131 sarar sizi. Meltemsi bir r\u00fczgar ku\u015fat\u0131r d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131n\u0131z\u0131. K\u0131\u015f\u0131n lodos r\u00fczgar\u0131 deniz dalgalar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcr\u00fckler; vurur r\u0131ht\u0131ma. Gemileri, yatlar\u0131 sahillere s\u00fcr\u00fckler. Yaz\u0131n s\u0131caktan adeta yanan Beyrut\u2019a s\u0131rt\u0131n\u0131 dayad\u0131\u011f\u0131 da\u011flardan serin serin r\u00fczgar eser. K\u0131y\u0131lar\u0131na do\u011fru indik\u00e7e \u0131s\u0131n\u0131r, \u0131s\u0131nd\u0131k\u00e7a kuru bir hava ku\u015fat\u0131r her taraf\u0131. Da\u011flar\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131k\u00e7a ho\u015f bir r\u00fczgar al\u0131r sizi sedir a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n\u0131n kollar\u0131n\u0131n aras\u0131na.<\/p>\n

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Sabah\u0131n erken saatlerinde, \u00e7iyler \u00e7i\u00e7eklerle raksederken, kulaklara usul usul akan Feyruz\u2019un muhte\u015fem musikisiyle, gecenin o \u0131\u015f\u0131lt\u0131l\u0131 f\u00fcsunuyla sizi dehlizlerine garkeder L\u00fcbnan. Harikulade bir iz b\u0131rak\u0131r size da\u011flar\u0131n ve Akdeniz\u2019in sesi, bak\u0131\u015f\u0131, kahkahas\u0131. Di\u011fer yanda ise h\u00fcz\u00fcn, keder, \u00f6l\u00fcm ve y\u0131k\u0131m; \u00a0nak\u015feder ilmek ilmek t\u00fcm bedeninize Beyrut. Zira bundand\u0131r ki, h\u00fczn\u00fc ve sevinci ayn\u0131 anda ya\u015fat\u0131r size. Dualizmin topra\u011f\u0131na yans\u0131m\u0131\u015f kokusu sizi eski Yunan\u2019a, eski Hind\u2019e, eski \u00c7in\u2019e, eski \u0130ran\u2019a ve eski M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019a g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcr ve felsefi olarak da Descartes\u2019\u0131n dualizminde bulursunuz kendinizi.<\/p>\n

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Her medeniyetten izler bulursunuz L\u00fcbnan\u2019\u0131n her sath\u0131nda. Ad\u0131m ad\u0131m ar\u015f\u0131nlad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z her soka\u011f\u0131nda, Hititten, Asurlardan, Babilden, Roma\u2019dan, Bizans\u2019tan, Emevi ve Abbasilerden, Sel\u00e7uklulardan, Ha\u00e7l\u0131lardan, Osmanl\u0131dan izler yans\u0131r g\u00f6z\u00fcn\u00fcze. Hangi komutanlar ge\u00e7medi ki bu topraklardan, Nebukadnezar, Tiglat-Pileser, B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender, Selahaddin, Osmanl\u0131 Beyleri ve Pa\u015falar\u0131, \u0130ngiliz mare\u015faller ve Frans\u0131z y\u00fcksek komiserleri\u2026<\/p>\n

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L\u00fcbnan\u2019\u0131n en eski sakinlerinden olan Fenikeliler, t\u00fcccar insanlard\u0131. Gemilerle Akdeniz \u00fczerinden d\u00fcnya pazar\u0131na a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131rlard\u0131. K\u0131\u015f\u0131n geri d\u00f6nd\u00fcklerinde L\u00fcbnan da\u011flar\u0131ndaki sedir a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 \u00fczerinde kar\u0131n verdi\u011fi g\u00fczel g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcmden dolay\u0131 buraya Fenike dilinde \u201cBeyaz karlar \u00fclkesi\u201d ad\u0131n\u0131 vermi\u015flerdi. Yani \u201cL\u00fcbnan\u201d. \u00d6n\u00fcn\u00fc engin bilgeli\u011fi ile nice medeniyetlerin be\u015fi\u011fi olan Akdeniz\u2019e, s\u0131rt\u0131n\u0131 ise kadim gemilerin kayna\u011f\u0131 olan sedir a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131 ile bezenmi\u015f da\u011flara dayanan Beyrut, Fenikelilerin alt\u0131n \u015fehriydi.<\/p>\n

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Bir zamanlar Ortado\u011fu\u2019nun Paris\u2019i olarak bilinirdi. \u015eimdilerde ise, saman alevi gibi parlay\u0131p daha sonra ayn\u0131 h\u0131zla s\u00f6nen krizlerin ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131, dramatik sanc\u0131larla bo\u011fu\u015fan bir \u00fclke halini ald\u0131. Siyonist \u0130srail\u2019in 1948\u2019de kurulmas\u0131ndan sonra bu \u00fclkenin \u00fczerinde kara bulutlar eksik olmad\u0131. 1975-1990 aras\u0131nda i\u00e7 sava\u015f ya\u015fand\u0131. Bu sava\u015fta 150 bin ki\u015fi hayat\u0131n\u0131 kaybetti. Anla\u015fmazl\u0131klar o g\u00fcnden beri sorunlar\u0131 artt\u0131rd\u0131, ya\u015famlar\u0131 kana bulad\u0131. \u0130srail, 1982 y\u0131l\u0131nda Kasap Ariel \u015earon\u2019un \u00f6nc\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde L\u00fcbnan\u2019a Sabra-\u015eatilla katliam\u0131 ile damga vurdu ve May\u0131s 2000 y\u0131l\u0131na kadar L\u00fcbnan\u2019\u0131n g\u00fcney topraklar\u0131nda i\u015fgalci olarak kald\u0131.<\/p>\n

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Ortado\u011fu\u2019nun etnik ve dini a\u00e7\u0131dan bir mozai\u011fini olu\u015fturan L\u00fcbnan\u2019da S\u00fcnni ve \u015eii M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar, Rum Ortodoks ve Maruni Katolikler, D\u00fcrziler, Ermeniler ve bir avu\u00e7 Yahudi bir arada ya\u015far. 1917\u2019de Osmanl\u0131 buradan ayr\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda \u00f6nce \u0130ngilizler, ard\u0131ndan 1921\u2019de Frans\u0131zlar mandas\u0131 alt\u0131na ald\u0131 L\u00fcbnan\u2019\u0131. 1943 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kazan L\u00fcbnan, Emperyalistlerin bu co\u011frafyaya giri\u015fiyle b\u00fcy\u00fck bir y\u0131k\u0131m ya\u015fad\u0131. Hr\u0131stiyan\u0131 Hr\u0131stiyana, M\u00fcsl\u00fcman\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcmana k\u0131rd\u0131rd\u0131. Onun i\u00e7indir ki, bu co\u011frafyan\u0131n insan\u0131 ya\u015fananlar\u0131 temkinli okur. Bir d\u00f6nemler L\u00fcbnan tarihinde M\u00fcft\u00fcn\u00fcn yeri \u00e7ok kuvvetliydi. Bir zamanlar bar\u0131\u015f ve s\u00fckunu o teskin ederdi. Siyasiler ve entelekt\u00fceller m\u00fcft\u00fcye dan\u0131\u015f\u0131rd\u0131. M\u00fcft\u00fc \u00e7ok y\u00f6nl\u00fc olmak zorunda idi. Siyasetten edebiyata, dinden felsefeye her\u015feyi bilmek zorunda idi. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u00fclke bir mozaikler \u00fclkesiydi her y\u00f6n\u00fcyle.<\/p>\n

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Araplar aras\u0131nda me\u015fhur bir deyim vard\u0131r: \u201cKitaplar M\u0131s\u0131rda yaz\u0131l\u0131r, L\u00fcbnan\u2019da bas\u0131l\u0131r ve Irak\u2019ta okunur\u201d. Arap aleminin en \u00fcnl\u00fc yay\u0131nevleri genelde Beyrut\u2019ta bulunur. Kaliteli bask\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra muhtelif konular ile geni\u015f bir okuyucu kitlesine hitap eder. Beyrut k\u00fclt\u00fcr bak\u0131m\u0131ndan ge\u00e7mi\u015fte \u0130stanbul\u2019a bug\u00fcnde Ankara\u2019ya hi\u00e7 bakm\u0131yor: onun y\u00f6neldi\u011fi medeniyet k\u0131blesi Paris ile Kahire\u2026 Beyrut\u2019un gazeteleri Frans\u0131z ve \u0130ngiliz ajanslar\u0131ndan al\u0131r haberleri. Frans\u0131z, \u0130ngiliz edebiyat\u0131n\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra Rus ve \u00c7in edebiyat\u0131n\u0131n kitaplar\u0131n\u0131 bulursunuz kesif bir \u015fekilde kitap\u00e7\u0131larda ancak bize ait kitaplar ise hen\u00fcz yeni raflardan yerini yeni yeni al\u0131yor. Okuyan\u0131 ise \u00e7ok az.<\/p>\n

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Beyrut, Arap d\u00fcnyas\u0131na modernizmin yay\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerdir. Matba, kitap, gazete ve g\u00fcncel tart\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131n ana oda\u011f\u0131 L\u00fcbnan\u2019d\u0131r. Arap d\u00fcnyas\u0131n\u0131n en \u00fcnl\u00fc gazeteleri 18. y\u00fczy\u0131lda burada ba\u015f g\u00f6sterir. E\u011fitimin de ana merkezidir. \u00d6zellikle, bat\u0131l\u0131 devletler burada az\u0131nl\u0131klara hitap etmek i\u00e7in \u00f6zel okullar kurdu. Bu okullar\u0131n bir\u00e7o\u011fu t\u0131pk\u0131 Amerikan \u00fcniversitesi gibi halen varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ok g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc bir \u015fekilde L\u00fcbnan toplumunda hissettirmektedir.<\/p>\n

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H\u00fcz\u00fcn ve sevincin, ya\u015fam\u0131n ve \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn i\u00e7 i\u00e7e oldu\u011fu topraklarda, hayat bir k\u00f6\u015fede en \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131ncas\u0131na devam ederken, di\u011fer tarafta ise \u00f6l\u00fcm m\u00fcltecileri vurur. Dualizmin ac\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc burada m\u00fc\u015fahede edebilirsiniz. G\u00fcnd\u00fcz\u00fcn o \u0131\u015f\u0131lt\u0131l\u0131 par\u0131lt\u0131s\u0131 alt\u0131nda solidar ve sahilde geziyor insanlar. Ak\u015fam karanl\u0131k \u00e7\u00f6kt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde ise caddeleri ve sahildeki Zaytuna bay dolup ta\u015f\u0131yor. Geceleri de \u0131\u015f\u0131l \u0131\u015f\u0131l Beyrut. Her cadde \u00fcnl\u00fc kafeler ve kafelerde eksik olmayan y\u00fczler.<\/p>\n

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Solidere L\u00fcbnan\u2019\u0131n \u00f6nemli gezi yerlerinden biri. Zaytuna Bay ise ak\u015fam serinli\u011finde en g\u00fczel gezi yerlerinden biri. El-Hamra, Marma\u011fayl, Cemiza, Bedaro, Sahra, El-Leyl ve Mono caddeleri, Abdulvahab, Loris, es-Sayyad, Sultan \u0130brahim, es-Seraya, Keramna, Beytu\u2019l Halep lokantalar\u0131 ve Flamenko, Um \u015eerif, Keyf, Leyla ve Hamra kafeleri cazibesiyle herkesi etkilemeye devam ediyor. D\u00fcnyan\u0131n neresine giderseniz gidin L\u00fcbnanl\u0131 i\u015f adamlar\u0131 ile y\u00fcz y\u00fcze gelirsiniz. \u00dcnl\u00fc L\u00fcbnan mutfa\u011f\u0131na ait ne var ise her k\u0131tada a\u00e7\u0131lan L\u00fcbnan lokantalar\u0131nda bulabilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

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\u201cK\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck Ortado\u011fu\u201d olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan L\u00fcbnan, \u0130lia Ebu Madi, Cibran Halil Cibran, Nizar Kabbani, Mahmud Dervi\u015f ve \u015eefik Maluf\u2019un sevgilisi bir \u00fclke. Sesiyle milyonlar\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fcleyen Feyruz\u2019un memleketi. Bir\u00e7ok \u015fiire ve romana konu olan L\u00fcbnan Emin Maalouf\u2019un romanlar\u0131nda ve Nizar Kabbani\u2019nin \u015fiirlerinde m\u00fccessem hale geliyor. Kabbani \u201cBeyrut Sevgilim\u201d adl\u0131 \u015fiirine \u015f\u00f6yle yaz\u0131yordu:<\/p>\n

Nerden geldi Beyrut<\/p>\n

Kasvet sana<\/p>\n

\u0130nceydin, al\u0131ml\u0131yd\u0131n<\/p>\n

Nas\u0131l d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc c\u0131v\u0131l c\u0131v\u0131l ser\u00e7eler<\/p>\n

Yarasalara, gece kedilerine.<\/p>\n

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Beyrut\u2019tan ayr\u0131l\u0131rken bile hala size ait baz\u0131 \u015feyleri burada b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131z hissi b\u0131rak\u0131r. Havaalan\u0131na giderken d\u00f6n\u00fcp d\u00f6n\u00fcp bakars\u0131n\u0131z her caddesine ve soka\u011f\u0131na, Akdeniz\u2019e ve da\u011flar\u0131na. G\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f olmu\u015f olmakl\u0131\u011f\u0131n verdi\u011fi sevin\u00e7 ve ayr\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n verdi\u011fi h\u00fcz\u00fcn, bu co\u011frafyada halen ke\u015ffedilmeyi bekleyen \u015feylerin oldu\u011funu f\u0131s\u0131ldar kula\u011f\u0131n\u0131za. B\u00f6ylece yeniden buraya d\u00f6nme hissi kavi bir \u015fekilde i\u00e7inizde baki kal\u0131r.<\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"  Kah bir \u00e7\u00f6l r\u00fczgar\u0131, kah Akdeniz havas\u0131 sarar sizi. Meltemsi bir r\u00fczgar ku\u015fat\u0131r d\u00f6rt bir yan\u0131n\u0131z\u0131. K\u0131\u015f\u0131n lodos r\u00fczgar\u0131 […]","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":267,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-266","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-seyahatname","category-yazilar"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/266","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=266"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/266\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":269,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/266\/revisions\/269"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/267"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=266"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=266"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/turankislakci.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=266"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}